Strand, stejle bakker og smagløs suppe

Torsdag den 29. december

Klokken er 10.15 da Christian holder ved vores hotel. Vores bil holder stadig i hans indkørsel efter gårsdagens hyggelige aften.

Viña del Mar hedder dagens destination. Det er en kystby, der grænser op til den lidt mere kendte Valpariso, som er en “hippie” by.

Vi følger samme opskrift som igår. Vi følger Christian, men denne gang kører vi væk fra den Argentinske grænse, så vi burde være nogenlunde trygge.

Det er en fantastisk flot køretur på ca. 2 timer. Vejen skærer sig igennem dale fyldt med vinmarker, og over frodige bjergtoppe.

Inden Viña del Mar stopper vi ved et lille udsigtspunkt i feriebyen Con-Con. Lige under byen, er der to kontinentplader der støder sammen. Det har skubbet flotte klippeformationer, blandet med størknet lava op, og dannet en rå og fantastisk flot kyst.
Vi kravler lidt rundt på klipperne og prøver febrilsk at tage det rette billede af det hele.

Desværre er den flotte vilde rå kyst, ved at forsvinde i høje, kedelige hoteller, som skyder op overalt.

Efter det lille stop, kører vi til Viña del Mar, for at få lidt at spise på en af de mange strandrestauranter. Menukortet er fisk og skaldyr, hvilket egentlig er fint med os.

Jeg bliver anbefalet, at prøve en varm lokal fiskesuppe. Alt i mig er i alarmberedskab, og skriger nej indvendigt. Jeg vælger, trods alle faresignaler, den lokale suppe. Pigerne får en gang pomfritter, imens Kristina vælger skaldyrsalaten.

Jeg vil sige det pænt – jeg tror vi valgte den forkerte restaurant!!! Kristinas skaldyrssalat består af en røvfuld salatblade, let drysset med skamkogte rejer og muslinger. Om fravalget af salt, peber og generelt krydderurter, er et bevidst valg fra kokkens side, ved jeg ikke, men i så fald burde det valg tages op til revision. Pigernes pomfritter er ok….og så er der suppen… Buldrerkogende i en dyb tallerken, bliver den serveret for mig. Et mix max af skaldyr + en hvid fiskefilet, inklusiv ben, har valgt at tage ophold i den kogende suppe. Også i suppen skinner kokkens fravalg af smag igennem, dog giver sandet det hele en form for sprødhed, og de buldrerkogte skaldyr giver suppen en form for bid.

Høfligheden tvinger mig igennem suppen, og ved min side kæmper Kristina samme kamp med sin salat.

Det skal dog nævnes, at vi fik nogle meget velsmagende skaldyrs empanadas og nogle lækre gratinerede muslinger, inden salat og suppe.

Efter dette måltid kører vi op til et lille udsigtspunkt i byen. Her kan vi kigge ud over den travle containerhavn, og vi når da også lige at nævne Mærsk for vores chilenske venner.

Derefter tager vi en tur i noget, som jeg vil betegne værende en blanding imellem en togvogn og en elevator. Vognen kører på skinner på den stejle bjergskråning og blev i gamle dage, før veje og biler, brugt som transportmiddel imellem de forskellige niveauer i byen. En sjov lille tur, i en knagende togvogn.

Inden en afsluttende tur på stranden, vil Fransiscas fætter (som stødte til os på restauranten) viser os lidt af den gamle bydel. Han er studerende i byen, og kender alle små gader og smutveje. Vi skal blot følge hans bil. Noget som viser sig, at være en større udfordring. Vi bliver ledt ind i små smalle gader tætpakket med busser og biler. Vi skifter bane konstant og presser os foran alverdens andre bilister. Derefter drejer vi væk fra vandet, og begynder en meget stejl opstigning i de farvestrålende gader. Op, op , rundt i skarpe sving, ned, rundt, op, op osv osv. Til sidst lokker han os ned af, hvad vi vil tro er, byens stejleste gade. Aldrig har jeg kørt ned af noget så stejlt. Inden vi rammer gaden, føles det som vi kører ud over en afgrund. Gaden er så stejl, at vi kan ikke se vejen, før bilen “tipper” nedad. Vi følger de andre med lidt afstand. Pigerne skriger og griner på bagsædet. Lige inden jeg vil passerer en parkeret bil, drejer Christian ind til siden foran mig, og til min skræk ser jeg en taxi med fuld fart på vej op. Jeg får vredet bilen ind bag den parkeret bil, så taxien kan passere, men med kun 30-40 cm afstand imellem den parkeret bil og vores bil, står vi med et mindre problem. Jeg har for lidt afstand til, at få bilen ud igen og holder på noget der føles som en 45 graders nedkørsel.

Vi holder lidt og sunder os. Vi har kun kørt i bilen et par dage, og hvad den kan holde til ved jeg ikke. Hestekræfter har den ikke mange af. Jeg flår gearstangen i bakgear og tæsker sømmet i bund. Et skrig af den anden verden høres, dels fra bagsædet og dels fra den lille motor. Men miraklet sker – bilen bakker et par meter op ad bakken, hvorefter den kan drejes uden om den parkerer bil…..Jagten på de andre genoptages og lidt efter er vi alle samlet igen.

Vi kører lidt mere rundt i de smalle flotte gader, alle fyldt med huse i alverdens farver og graffiti. En rigtig fed oplevelse, som vi på ingen måde vil have været foruden. Som almindelig dum turist, ville vi aldrig have set og oplevet de ting, som vi gjorde på de vilde 30 minutter rundt i de smalle gader – fedt fedt fedt.

Vi slutter besøget i Viña del Mar af, med en tur på stranden, hvor kæmpe bølger rejser sig lige inden stranden.

Da vi sidst på aftenen rammer hotellet, tager vi alle en snack og en kold fadøl sammen på hotellets udmærkede restaurant. Her får vi grinet lidt af dagens og gårdagnes oplevelser. Pigerne får givet Fransesca og hendes veninde en kæmpe krammer. De har alle 4 været udadskillige hele dagen, og det er med blanke øjne de tager afsked. Vi får sagt pænt farvel og får endnu engang takket dem, for alt det tid de har brugt på os, og på alt det venlighed vi har mødt, samt en masse spændende oplevelser.

Trætte falder vi om i vores senge. Imorgen skal der pakkes. En 12 timers køretur til Pucon venter os, så det er med at få sovet godt ud….

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